“It is well to remember
That there are five reasons for drinking …
The arrival of a friend
One’s present or future thirst,
The excellence of the wine,
Or any other reason.”

At the four-month-old Coquette Bistro and Raw Bar, this eloquent and wise Latin proverb commands respectful attention from patrons, where, in tasteful metallic lettering, said quip graces a prominent gilded mirror that decorates the posterior of the bar. What this means to me: the owner or interior designer possesses an estimable amount of intellect. What this means to you: you want to drink here.

Honestly, you’ve got to dig a place that displays such reverence for imbibing with such tongue-in-cheek irreverence. This carries even more weight when you consider that this brasserie (opened by Cary Neff, owner of the Sansom Street Oyster House) is about as French-inspired as you’ll find in the city.

While the atmosphere is jaunty, the menu is not-messing-around authentically Français (although I’m not sure about the oysters) and will cost you far fewer francs than any meal at a comparable bistro in Paris, or even Rittenhouse Square. The wine list, although not extensive, is heavily dominated by the Europeans, and, as a happy side note, is almost entirely comprised of glasses that sell for less than $10. The beer list, which primarily leaves France only to venture into Belgian and German territory, is more impressive.

Merci, Monsieur Neff. C’est bon.

Coquette
5th and Bainbridge, Philadelphia, PA
(215) 238-9000
www.coquettebistro.com