Post by Kelly White

Finally, a Rittenhouse Square dining destination that doesn’t require reservations. Stephen Starr’s ode to a French brasserie, the luminous Parc, is a colossal 250-seater. The bistro’s movie set design affects an aged look and cinematic feel, complete with tobacco-stains, touches of brass, brown leather banquettes, and French woven rattan chairs. Even the toillette exudes style, with glass-paned swinging doors and shimmering tiles. Yet for all of its grandeur, Parc moves with casual grace.

This isn’t just another notch on the Starr Restaurant Organization gastro-post. St. Tropez-bred chef Dominique Filoni pulls no punches with a respect to French cafe classics done right and done well. The bread basket yielded rustic, house-baked loaves and whipped butter. De rigueur appetizers like charcuterie with country pâté lead to duck confit and moules frites, with plats du jour. I found myself tucking into an extraordinarily flaky tomato tart and mesclun tinged in a tangy vinaigrette. And that was just a starter.

The lengthy, opulent bar beckons with its more than sufficient wine list and expert cocktails like a generously-Brandied Calvados Sidecar. Desserts are a crème-heavy must-who doesn’t respect creme brûlée, profiteroles, and a velvety chocolate pot de crème? With that decadent ending, I was expecting a gastronomical check. I soon learned that a meal at Parc is a lot more affordable than one in Paris.

Parc
227 S 18th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103
(215) 545-2262
www.parc-restaurant.com