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August 13, 2008

Parc: Rittenhouse Square’s Latest Starr

Post by Kelly White

Finally, a Rittenhouse Square dining destination that doesn’t require reservations. Stephen Starr’s ode to a French brasserie, the luminous Parc, is a colossal 250-seater. The bistro’s movie set design affects an aged look and cinematic feel, complete with tobacco-stains, touches of brass, brown leather banquettes, and French woven rattan chairs. Even the toillette exudes style, with glass-paned swinging doors and shimmering tiles. Yet for all of its grandeur, Parc moves with casual grace.

This isn’t just another notch on the Starr Restaurant Organization gastro-post. St. Tropez-bred chef Dominique Filoni pulls no punches with a respect to French cafe classics done right and done well. The bread basket yielded rustic, house-baked loaves and whipped butter. De rigueur appetizers like charcuterie with country pâté lead to duck confit and moules frites, with plats du jour. I found myself tucking into an extraordinarily flaky tomato tart and mesclun tinged in a tangy vinaigrette. And that was just a starter.

The lengthy, opulent bar beckons with its more than sufficient wine list and expert cocktails like a generously-Brandied Calvados Sidecar. Desserts are a crème-heavy must-who doesn’t respect creme brûlée, profiteroles, and a velvety chocolate pot de crème? With that decadent ending, I was expecting a gastronomical check. I soon learned that a meal at Parc is a lot more affordable than one in Paris.

Parc
227 S 18th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103
(215) 545-2262
www.parc-restaurant.com

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August 13, 2008, 9:20 am

Elizabeth says:

Having recently dined at Parc, I found it extremely disappointing. Some items were great; others were dismal. It was an inconsistent meal. Add in valet parking and brunch was $200 with three drinks and a bottle of Evian. Not worth the money! Not even a memorable experience.

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