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Varga girls were World War II-era pin-up beauties, often found decorating the lockers of American soldiers overseas. Vibrant, sexy and sophisticated, Varga girls represented a slice of America itself, in a simple but classy fashion.

Varga Bar, the new beer/bites/delicious everything joint that recently opened on 10th and Spruce, follows a similar mantra: vibrant beers, seductive, sophisticated cheeses, and a smattering of wholesome all-American dishes sure to make you salivate.

Let’s start with the beers. Varga’s beer list is small, but carefully chosen, with rarities like the Founders Cerise (a light, cheery-flavored beer), the Ommegang Rare Vos, and the Dogfish Head Arihop. During Happy Hour (Mondays through Fridays, 4-6), they’re just $4 a pop –there’s also $5 margs and $2 cans. Yes, please!

The cheese-tasting menu oozes classiness, and is the perfect choice for a late lunch or pre-date nibble. I LOVED the “up in smoke”, a maple-leaf wrapped, bourbon-misted, hickory-smoked goat cheese—and the clothbound cheddar (fresh from Vermont) paired perfectly with the pickle almond caramel served on the side. If cheese isn’t your thing, go light with the Varga Salad, made with heirloom tomatoes, burrata cheese and aged balsamic and olive oil. Feel like splurging? Try the seafood pot for two, filled with fresh lobster, crab and shellfish. Mmmm.

The other half of the menu will bring you down-home, with tried-and-true American comfort foods made even more delicious with a gourmet touch. I ordered the Kobe beef sliders, which were a little slice of paradise – served medium rare, with outrageously good homemade onion rings. The jump lump cheese fries (fries + jumbo lump crap meat + white cheddar and parmesan) were incredibly flavorful and piled high. Plus, Varga makes its own ketchup, which was a little spicy and smoky and a welcome change from the usual Heinz.

Dessert was breakfast cereal-inspired ice cream: Cinnamon Toast Crunch, Lucky Charms, and Cocoa Crispies. Adorable to look at, delicious to eat!

The bar itself is done up in black and white, with copious outdoor seating and plenty of Varga girl prints. For a laidback summer afternoon, or swank outdoor dinner – this place is it!

Varga Bar
941 Spruce Street, Philadelphia, PA 19107
(215) 627-5200
www.vargabar.com