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October 29, 2009

The New York Times New Restaurant Critic Ponders the Greater Virtues of the Cheesesteak

philly-cheesesteaks-pats-genos-1uw

The New York Times calls the cheesesteak "an almost perfect sandwich." (Left photo by B. Krist; right by R. Kennedy)

With all the attention cheesesteaks are getting these days, largely thanks to the Phillies playing in the World Series, The New York Times weighed in today on the overall virtues of the sandwich as a food staple.

And they had interesting things to say, including calling the cheesesteak “an almost perfect sandwich” and noting how Geno’s cheesesteaks can taste better late at night depending on one’s sobriety.

And then they got into the composition of the sandwich itself:

Mr. Wells: Stop right there. Mayo?

Mr. Sifton: That is right, my friend. A little dressing to moisten the meat, provide glue to the bread, add what the professionals call mouth feel.

Mr. Wells: Did you ever order it that way in South Philly? And live to tell the tale?

Mr. Sifton: In South Philly there are signs on the windows of the restaurants compelling patrons to order their food “in English.” Mayonnaise, for all I know, is Greek to them. I stood down and got Whiz, some hot peppers, made my way to a table and ate. I understood then why mayo doesn’t fly down there. The Whiz is essentially mayonnaise in consistency and purpose. It’s an elegantly ordered world.

Mr. Wells: See, this is what I mean. The cheese steak, properly considered, is an arrangement of textures, from soft to chewy to sticky. Salt plays a role; beyond that, I think flavor is irrelevant.

Mr. Sifton: The fire of the hot pepper is good, though, and the cheese is basically a salty sweet. Everything a triangle, everything in ratio! It’s Michael Ruhlman’s world; we just live in it.

They closed with a question playfully alluding to the cheesesteak’s role in nourishing the Phillies players and aiding their dominance in baseball over the last two seasons:

Yes, let’s hear some other opinions on this. If the Phillies take two World Series in a row, should George Steinbrenner yank all the concessions at the stadium except Carl’s Philly Cheesesteak?

Good question.

On the Question of Cheese Steaks [Diner's Journal - New York Times]
A Cheese Steak at Yankee Stadium? [Bats Blog - New York Times]

Earlier: Philly Cheesesteaks Invade New York City, Yankee Stadium; Sometimes Even Serve As Pre-Game Meal For Yankees Players

BONUS VIDEO: TONY LUKE IN WORLD SERIES FOOD FIGHT

Also, below we have a video of Tony Luke Jr. (he of Tony Luke’s) representing Philadelphia and Philadelphia foods in a verbal food fight against Sal Scognamillo of Patsy’s in New York City on Fox News the other night.

Tony Luke professes Philadelphia’s greatness right off the bat by stating that “[Philadelphia] invented the cheesesteak and the cheesesteak has literally become the new great American sandwich.” Enough said.

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(1 response)

October 29, 2009, 5:37 pm

phillygrrl says:

Yum, I know what I’m getting for lunch!

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