August 1, 2007
Post submitted by Elisa Ludwig
Contrary to popular belief, cinnamon buns did not spring fully formed from the mall or a refrigerated pressurized tube from Acme. In fact, these gooey spirals of yeast pastry – like so many decadent treats – originated in Philly. According to Lynn Olver of The Food Timeline, the original cinnamon bun evolved out of schnecken (German “snail” pastry), which were being rolled up in Pennsylvania Dutch kitchens in Germantown as early as the 17th century.
Today, the ultimate local cinnamon buns belong to Beiler’s Bakery, tucked in the northwest corner of Reading Terminal Market. (Be warned that Beiler’s does not accommodate bun cravings Sunday through Tuesday). While cinnamon and sticky bun toppings have evolved around the world to include ingredients like peanut butter, lemon and cream cheese, Beiler’s (ahem) sticks to a small, traditional list: plain, raisin, pecan, or raisin and pecan. The Beiler’s bun is a squat, dense swirl the size of a salad plate, lacquered with a buttery, mahoghany caramel that threatens to glue your molars together in the best possible way. The best method for attacking this bun? First, peel the outer layer, revealing its golden dough and a speckling of cinnamon and brown sugar. Next, eat clockwise, moving inward to the inevitably syrupy center. Then lick your fingers.
Beiler’s Bakery @ Reading Terminal Market
12th and Arch St, Philadelphia, PA
(215) 351-0735
www.readingterminalmarket.org
April 6, 2007
Even during these past few days of Spring chill, there’s a sunny, Irie-type vibe at Lawndale’s One Love Cafe. And while the name might have you picturing some sort of corny island theme restaurant a la Margaritaville, One Love is actually a small, family-owned eatery serving authentic Caribbean cuisine.
Inside, the atmosphere is casual but cheerful, with two rooms done up in bright primary colors and dinnerware decorated with sunflowers. There are plenty of tables for hanging out here, but the place also does a sizable takeout business for ackee-lovin’ Northeasters”¦ their Styrofoam containers come packed to their little tab slots with fluffy rice and peas and zaftig hunks of macaroni and cheese. It’s also a great value: For about $25, two people can feast heartily on big mains like crispy fried fish, goat stew and oxtails along with a choice of two sides (highly recommended is the luscious sauteed cabbage with threads of carrot). The true test, of course, is the jerk, which is cinnamon-licious with the perfect ratio of lip-tingling pepper. Wash it down with a ginger beer and step out into the cold Philly night. Bob Marley tunes are optional.
One Love Cafe
6417 Rising Sun Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19111
(215) 745-0566
January 30, 2007
When it rains chorizo, it pours. With the nuevo wave of Spanish restaurants in Philly, the local demand for Spanish ingredients has risen. Two eateries, Apamate and Amada, have obliged with mini-grocery areas selling Ortiz tuna and Clementine juice. And now, foodies no longer have to rely on LaTienda.com for a lomo fix. Northern Liberties’ Quince Fine Foods is an entire store specializing in all things paprika-spiced.
Housed in a onetime telegraph office, this Girard Avenue gem has been rehabbed with brightly colored walls, beautifully scarred planked wood floors, and cheery paintings of the eponymous fruit. Owners Nicole Marcote and Joan Sauvion stock their fridge with delicious imported Spanish cheeses like Garrotxa, aged and young Manchego and Ibérico plus delicately sliced Serrano ham, spicy chorizos and–yes!–lomo. On the vintage shelves are goodies like piquillo peppers, Ortiz canned tuna, boquerones, and sweet and savory olive oil biscuits.
Just as woman cannot survive on anchovy alone, however, a gourmet store cannot subsist solely on products from the Iberian Peninsula. Marcote and Sauvion cover the bases with jarred Indian curries, dried nuts, pastas, gourmet jams, hand-painted ceramics, and Totally Bamboo utensils. There’s takeout, too: Fresh, daily made soups and sandwiches, including veggie options for the pork-averse.
Quince Fine Foods
209 W Girard Avenue
Philadelphia, PA 19123
215-232-3425
January 10, 2007
The Super Bowl approacheth (fingers are crossed), and if you want to offer your game-watching guests memorable party food that doesn’t involve Velveeta, you may well turn to the tomato pie. For the uninitiated, tomato pie is a stripped-down version of pizza, with all the basic elements of a Margherita except the molten cheese. But it’s hardly an ascetic option: In the ideal tomato pie, the sauce and crust are rich with olive oil, and each bite has a surprisingly velvety texture. (Granted, the tomato pie appeals to the more delicate eater, since you can’t just order a slice, fold the thing over and feel the grease running down your arm as you wolf it down between bar stops. With dozens of pieces per, it’s more of a premeditated affair.)
My personal favorite is from the Conshohocken “” better known to customers as “Conshy“ “” Bakery, where the square-shaped pie has a focaccia-like crust whose golden, faintly crisp edges frame a smooth blanket of tomato sauce and just a light sprinkling of pecorino cheese. The bakery also sells a few white pies with other toppings. Of these you should not miss the anchovy pie, a salty, pungent delectation that looks like the quilted top of a mattress buttoned with slivers of the tiny fish, garlic and rosemary. Both are fantastic heated or at room temperature so it’s a good idea to stash at least one in the freezer for unexpected party situations. Like Eagles victories.
Conshohocken Italian Bakery
79-83 Jones Street
Conshohocken, PA 19428
610-825-9334
October 27, 2006
Have you fed your inner snob lately? If the newest restaurants and gastropubs in town are no longer cool enough for you, it may be time to explore some underground dining options. Underground dining is like the culinary version of Prohibition-era speakeasies. Only instead of blindness-causing bathtub gin you get to experience restaurant-quality veal cheeks served over soft polenta with glass of Cabernet from a small vineyard that not even your most hardcore oenophilic friends have heard of.
In cities like New York and Seattle, underground dining clubs meet in unlikely locations that serve as below-the-radar eateries. Here in Philly, a roving band of chefs from Global Dish Caterers throws the occasional L’Atelier party in an art gallery or a department store. It’s a concept that has instant appeal for foodies and food artisans alike. For the people at Global Dish, it’s a chance to go boutique style with their cooking and serve a smaller number of guests with high-falutin’ palettes.
For participants, it’s all about being part of the elite group of diners who know where and when it will take place. With a price tag of $125 a person, the covert kitchen will prepare a full menu of multiple course meals paired with unusual wines. There’s no secret handshake, but, unfortunately, you do have to be invited. I’ve never made the cut, but if anyone out there can pull any strings, I promise to keep it on the D.L.
Global Dish Caterers
215-592-9944
Photo by R. Kennedy.
