
Brunch at Marigold Kitchen (all photos by M. McClellan)
Marigold Kitchen is a Philadelphia institution. This stately rowhouse in West Philly, just a few blocks from Clark Park has been a restaurant since 1934. In those days, it was known as the Marigold Tea Room, and was a haven for Penn students and professors. Since 2004, it has been a casually elegant BYOB that has nurtured several talented area chefs. The most recent alum is Erin O’Shea, who is now at the new Percy Street Barbecue on South Street.

Philly-area native Robert Halpern has taken over the kitchen from O’Shea and brings nearly fifteen years of experience with him. Halpern recently expanded Marigold Kitchen’s offerings to include Sunday brunch (a brilliant move in this residential neighborhood with relatively few brunch spots) and so last Sunday, my husband and I paid a visit* to see how this new incarnation of Marigold Kitchen does eggs, waffles, french toast and coffee.

Walking in right at 10:30, we were greeted by a small, crackling fire. There were just a couple of occupied tables, but this wasn’t a worrisome sign, as we were there within minutes of opening. The friendly front-of-house staff soon had us tucked away in the house’s former dining room, with menus, coffee (good, strong) and orange juice (freshly squeezed, with abundant pulp).

We ordered the steak and eggs (one over-easy egg perched atop a gorgeously medium-rare petite filet), the pain perdu (cereal-crusted challah with a cinnamon-infused foam) and their version of a croque monsieur (essentially a truffled smoked salmon sandwich. I am a sucker for anything truffled). Additionally, the kitchen sent out their house waffle, which was crisp, tender and was topped with whipped cream and toasted pine nuts. Certainly, the most indulgent waffle I’ve had recently (it made my homemade whole grain ones seem prissy and staid in comparison).

My only word of warning about Marigold Kitchen is for those of you who like a egg with a firmly cooked white. I found their egg whites to be the runny side of acceptable. Certainly edible (and with gorgeously hued yolks), but if you’re at all picky about such things, you might want to include a word in your order, to ensure you’ll receive a egg that you’ll be happy with.
Marigold Kitchen
501 S. 45th Street, Philadelphia, PA
(215) 222-3699
www.marigoldkitchenbyob.com
*Disclosure: Our meal was organized by Marigold Kitchen’s PR firm and was complimentary.